November 27, 2016

1 comment


Leaves and the "DIY Factor"

As more and more hobbyists are getting into the idea of using leaves and botanicals in their aquariums, we receive more and more inquiries about what leaves are useable, and how to collect and prepare them for aquarium use. This is a very interesting and fun topic. Although I've spent a lot of time studying and experimenting with various leaves in the aquarium, I am not a botanist, and am certainly no expert on every facet of using leaves you collect in your aquarium. However, the benefits of humic substances, tannins, and other compounds imparted to water by a variety of dried leaves is increasingly well documented and studied, so the growing interest in this subject is quite logical.

First off, a lot of you are probably thinking I'm crazy anyways for encouraging hobbyists to collect and prepare their own leaves. I mean, they're one of the key products that I sell. I'm flattered at the thought that some might think that I am the gatekeeper for "magic knowledge" about leaves and how to use them, but the reality is that hobbyists have been utilizing leaves for decades before I ever even considered the idea. I'm just a bit louder and perhaps more obsessed about it than others!  I am also very careful to source my leaves from people who know exactly what they're doing, and who understand our end purpose. And no, my botanical empire will not fall apart if I share some information on collecting and using some of your own leaves in your aquariums!

The first question I usually receive is "Can I use ____ leaves in my aquarium?" Obviously, the most important consideration. The short answer is, "I can't tell you for sure!" The reality is, many, many, many leaves, if used dried and properly prepared, can work in aquariums. Sure, their might be some that have "native" toxic exudates or contain substances that can have deleterious effects on fishes and aquatic life in closed systems. We offer leaves and botanicals which we have determined, through a variety of means- are suitable for our purposes. It's not an easy task, and not everyone would be into it- but it is the responsible thing to do.

Unfortunately, to determine the suitability of the leaves you're considering, you will simply have to experiment with live fishes- not something everyone wants to do, but in reality the only real way to determine wether or not the leaves you're playing with are problematic. You can certainly make use of Google, Wikipedia, and other online botany sites- or even the local college library- to determine if there are known chemical toxins in the leaves you're considering. Tip: Oak, Beech, and other deciduous leaves have been used by hobbyists for some time, and would be good ones to use in a DIY-type situation. You may need to consult someone with a botany and/or chemistry background as well. I spent a lot of time reaching out to various individuals with this information, and it was time well spent. In the end, it was up to me to experiment and put fishes "in harms way" to determine if various leaves were suitable.

The first "generic tip" about collecting leaves with consideration for aquarium use (once you've determined if they are safe for fishes) is to use leaves that have naturally fallen and dried up. These leaves are dead, and have been depleted of much of their natural sugars and other living matter than can essentially become "pollutants" or "boiled" as the leaves die in the aquarium water. You don't want to overwhelm your aquarium with lots of organics caused by using non-dried leaves. A hugely important step. Autumn is, of course, a perfect time to collect leaves for your aquarium!

And of course, make sure that you are collecting the leaves from areas known to be free of pesticides, fertilizers, and pollutants (like factory soot, ash, industrial smoke dust, heavy smog, etc.). This goes without saying; however, it is an important consideration and will eliminate some locations for collection right away. It's really important!  When you collect these leaves, make sure that they are naturally fallen, preferably on dirt or grass, as opposed to asphalt roadways and such. 

To prepare the leaves, you'd probably first want to inspect them, to make sure that they are free of things like spiders, insects, and other debris that you don't want in your tank. I like to literally give mien a rub down with a moist paper towel, to get some of the surface dust and dirt off of them! Yes, this is time-consuming, but this is the best way to do it, IMHO. You will almost never hear me recommending to just "pick, dump, and pay" leaves into your aquarium. If you've decided to go the DIY route- do it right! Then, I'd give the leaves a day to sort of "air out" a bit in a cool, dark space (like a closet). 

From here, the procedures are similar to what we recommend for preparing the leaves and botanicals that we sell here at Tannin. I am a huge fan of an overnight soak in fresh water. You can start with some boiled water, and let the leaves "steep" overnight as it cools. The warm water will further help sterilize the leaves somewhat. Now, a lot of people will tell you that you shouldn't boil the leaves, because it will "crack off" most of the beneficial tannin and humic substances in the leaves, and I'm inclined to agree to some extent. Boiling them is a bit excessive. However, steeping them in boiling water and letting it cool overnight is not, IMHO. Have you ever boiled leaves and then placed them into a container of clean water overnight? Yeah, it will be brown by the next day in most cases, so I don't buy the whole "Don't soak your leaves" mindset.  It's a step I almost never skip.

How many leaves to use is a subject we've discussed numerous time here in "The Tint", so I won't really go into it in depth in this brief piece. The bottom line is that you should use caution, particularly when using leaves you haven't tried before. Softer, already acidic water will be more significantly impacted by the tannins and humic substances released by the leaves, driving the pH down more significantly and quickly than in harder, more alkaline water.  Color of the water is no guide to how acidic it is. You simply need to test. A pH meter makes this a very simple task.  My advice is always to go slowly. There is no need to rush. Every aquarium is different in how it reacts to "inputs" such as the compounds released by leaves, so there is no real "generic answer" that is 100% reliable. "Test and tweak" is the mantra of the DIY leaf-user!

So, in summary- yes- you can and should collect your own leaves if you're up to the task of being responsible and inquisitive. It's certainly fun, and can save you some money (which I expect your'll spend on our tropical botanicals that you can't simply collect in your yard, typically, lol)! However, if you are not willing to take the time to source, identify, prepare, and test, you may want to simply purchase your leaves from a reliable source...like Tannin Aquatics, for example! 

So, the leaf vendor is saying it's cool to collect your own..if you're into it.

Stay excited. Stay inquisitive. Stay creative. Stay responsible.

Ans Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics.

 

 

November 26, 2016

0 comments


Rethinking the unthinkable?

Yes, the holiday season is upon us. Time to think about others, purchase gifts, spend time with family, and all that good stuff. And for an aquarium hobbyist, it's that time of year to spend a little more time looking at your tanks, dreaming, thinking, scheming. And If necessary, making changes? 

Yeah, why not? These are the "indoor months" for many of us- a good time to re-assess where our tanks are, where they're headed, and what our goals are for them.

When is it time to revamp your tank? When is it time to tear down your tank and just start over? Or take a break form the whole game? Is it EVER that time? 



If you’ve been in the hobby long enough, chances are, you’ll eventually reach that day where you look at your aquarium and think, “I just don’t think it’s working for me anymore…” Your system has some problems, issues, or even major design flaws that are simply overriding any enjoyment that you are deriving from the tank. You contemplate a major overhaul, or tearing the tank down altogether…You’ve tried to work with it, but you can’t anymore…You’re even ready to consider the “nuclear option.”


Is it the end? Or the beginning?

What are the signs that it’s time to do a major overhaul, or break the tank down and start over?

Algae is growing faster than your plants. Or your fishes, for that matter! Yup, we’ve all been there. Despite our best efforts, we simply cannot overcome an algae issue. Even though almost every algae issue is solvable, based often on some nutrient-export-related deficiency, there is a point when the recovery procedures become just too much, and you’re better off breaking down the system, giving it a thorough cleaning, and rebuilding aspects of the system with greater attention to nutrient export mechanisms (like a better filter, more efficient flow, sump design, etc.). Algae problems are annoying, detracting, and often times humbling. However, they are very traceable to a cause, or set of causes- that may be corrected. Sometimes, it's just a matter of adjusting husbandry practices. Other times, overhauling your system to create a better, more viable microcosm is the way to go. It's been said that nuisance algae causes more people to leave the hobby than just about anything else. It's certainly annoying, but it's not worth getting out of the game altogether, in my humble opinion. Test, tweak, and revamp. But never quit.



"Going green" takes on a different meaning to you when you wake up to this every day!

Continued anomalous livestock deaths. Okay, this is a tough one, but maybe you’re noticing a complete decline in your ability to keep animals alive. You introduce new fish, and they flat-out die shortly afterwards. Weird stuff like that. Now, I realize that, in many instances, regular deaths of newly introduced livestock can be a result of everything from incompetence to aggression, to a resident disease or other killer, and may not be the result of the system itself. Sometimes, a parasitic disease just requires a "fallow" period without fishes for a couple of months to break the cycle. However, if after a top to bottom review of everything from source water to acclimation procedures to photoperiod, you’re still at a loss to find out why things are dying, despite your heroic, seasoned efforts- it simply may be time to re-assess your setup itself…radical, but possibly the best alternative. A “re-boot” can work well in this instance, at least psychologically, if not practically.



Dissatisfaction with your overall design. Who doesn’t buy a car and have remorse, perform a home remodel and wish that they added more closet space, or order the pasta when they should have ordered the fish? It’s human nature. If your just miserable with your aquarium system, and it’s not living up to your expectations, of course you should rework it. Take into account the little things that annoy you about your present system: It’s too big, too small, has difficult access or maintenance issues, is hard to take care of when you travel, etc. However, if “retrofitting” is not going to get you the desired result, a complete rehab is a viable option. Other sources of dissatisfaction might be a design that is hard to work in (i.e.; you can't get your hands under the stand area to service the filter), lack of practical electrical outlets, or a location in your home that is interfering with daily living. And noise.  All sorts of noise. All important considerations that may be overlooked in the initial excitement of setting up a new tank, and the "honeymoon" period that follows. 



"Back to the drawing board"- aquarium-keeping style!

Your aquascaping is just not doing it for you.  This can actually be a very pleasant weekend task! You may find that you simply need to remove some rock, wood, or plants to create more “negative space”, better circulation, or a totally different look. Maybe you’re trying to create a biotope, replicating a specific section of natural stream, river, or lake. Maybe you are interested in creating a more minimalist approach..The possibilities are endless, and since you already have the “infrastructure” (ie; pumps, lights, etc.) in place, why not just rework what you already have?




You're nursing outdated, damaged, or otherwise inappropriate equipment. If that power filter from the 1990’s is turning into a liability for you (of course it is!), and that small crack in the bottom of the tank is starting to weep hard-water "stalactites", or the drywall behind the tank is starting to get soft and "mildewy", it may be time to start fresh. In fact, this is a good time to re-assess your hobby goals, and start accumulating more appropriate, more modern equipment. Sure, this is the most expensive option- total replacement, but it’s also potentially the most beneficial. Why? Well, first of all, you can create a system with wonderful technology that meets all of your new hobby views and tastes. Second, it gives you an added measure of safety, replacing potentially dangerous equipment that has fallen into disrepair, and finally, it enables you to take a deep breath, with a completely new, re-engaging approach to your hobby. Its never a bad thing to start over if the reasoning is right!



Your aquarium is becoming an economic drain or other social liability. Look, I love fish tanks more than almost anything, but sometimes we bite off more than we can chew. Your financial situation can change, you may have a growing family or career commitment that requires more time and money, you have a health issue, you creep out potential dates because your aquarium is nicer than your car, or you might simply need a smaller, more manageable tank in order to stay in the hobby long-term. These are never bad reasons to make changes. Downsizing to a system that better fits your life enables you to enjoy a hobby- not be a tank slave to a system that is taxing you financially, physically, and socially. Your hobby should be a pleasant diversion, not a source of tension between you and your family. Needs and interests change over time. If you're a REAL aquarist- and I suspect that you are- you will return, better and more engaged than ever. Sometimes, taking a “sabbatical” from the hobby is not a bad thing, either. When you return, it will be for all of the right reasons, and free from the tensions caused by not having the time, money, or physical resources to fully enjoy your hobby.


This hobby isn't supposed to be a financial drain! (says this erstwhile aquarium products vendor, LOL) But, seriously...

In the end, a hobby is meant to be enjoyable, and the aquarium hobby, in particular, is also a lifestyle- a way of looking at the world, and an educational resource for your family. When it becomes not-so-fun anymore, that’s when you need to step back, re-assess, and regroup. Just like in life, it’s never a bad thing to make the occasional change. As long as you are not doing it for the wrong reasons (you HAVE to have the very latest gear all the time to impress everyone, your ego tells you that you need a huge aquarium to be bigger than anyone else’s in your club, or you feel that you're not a “serious” aquarist unless you constantly re-work your system), it’s never bad to evolve, experiment, change. In fact, tweaking your system is not only a pleasant part of the hobby, it’s what the hobby is all about- experimenting, playing, and constantly finding new ways to enjoy this engaging, obsessive game we call “aquarium-keeping.”



As always, I'd like to see you add to this list, debate it, discuss it, and beat the heck out of it, if necessary...ENGAGE!

Until next time…

Stay happy. Stay enthusiastic. Stay involved...

And Stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

November 25, 2016

11 comments


More than you care to know about Catappa Leaves...

 

There has been an amazing trend in the aquarium world of late; a trend towards incorporating natural materials in our aquascapes, encouraging us to try new concepts, new approaches, and new and exciting aesthetics. I'm kind of stoked to see that Tannin Aquatics is sort of pushing and prodding things along, too!

It's exciting to see the idea of leaves in the aquarium getting a fresh look. It seems that we're no longer talking about using leaves simply to create blackwater-type conditions for breeding fishes. Now, we're starting to look at them for the aesthetics and other functional capabilities they bring to the aquarium. And that is even more exciting to us!

It all starts with the Catappa leaf.

Yeah, the "vector" for the "New Botanical" movement of the hobby is the humble leaf that's hardly unknown to the hobby. Derived from the Terminalia catappa tree, this beautiful leaf has been used in aquariums for some time, particularly, by Betta enthusiasts in Asia, for its purported antifungal and antibacterial benefits.  And, current scientific research has proven this to be true. In addition, humic substances, derived from Catappa and other leaves, have been shown to provide a host of health benefits for tropical fishes. Only recently are aquarists discovering and experimenting with the many possible aesthetic applications for them as well.

 The idea of incorporating an area of leaf litter in an aquarium has been irresistible to me, and several years ago, I began to explore the ins and outs of the popular Catappa leaf and its applications and implications for aquarium use. I think my enthusiasm stems from the fact that, when properly and aesthetically employed, leaf litter adds a new dimension to a biotope-inspired aquarium, in addition to utility.

 

Many fishes (particularly South American fishes like Tetras, Cichlids and catfishes), as well as numerous African and Southeast Asian species (Gouramis, Bettas, etc.) benefit from the tannic acids and other substances released by these products into the water. 

 

The bark and particularly, the leaves of the Indian Almond tree contain a host of interesting chemicals that may provide benefits for tropical fishes. The leaves themselves contain several flavonoids, like kaempferol and quercetin, a number of tannins, like punicalin and punicalagin, as well as a suite of saponins and phytosterols. Extracts of T. catappa have shown some effectiveness against some bacteria, specifically, Plasmodium, and some parasites as well. 

 

When Indian Almond leaves are immersed in water, the tannins and humic substances are released, which can lower the pH of the water. The tannins are what tint the water to a beautiful brownish color, known colloquially as “blackwater.”

 

It has been theorized that the tannins in Catappa leaves are able to reduce the toxicity of heavy metals in aquarium water, essentially binding them up or chelating them- a most interesting benefit for the urban fish keeper, I might add! At this point, you’re probably thinking, ”Okay, Scott. That sounds very scholarly, but what exactly are those things and what can they do for my fishes?”

 

 

 

 

 

 

What makes these leaves tick?

 

Well, lets start with the flavonoids. Flavonoids have been shown to have direct and synergistic antibacterial activity (with antibiotics) and the ability to suppress bacterial virulence factors in a number of research studies. They may also act as chemical "messengers", physiological regulators, and "cell cycle inhibitors", which bodes well for their use as a prophylactic of sorts. Kaempferol, a noted flavonoid,  is thought to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Could this be why Betta fanciers used them for so many years after fighting their fishes?

Saponins can be used to enhance penetration of macromolecules, like proteins, into cell membranes. Some are used in vaccines to help stimulate immune responses, so you can imagine some potential benefits here as well

Phytosterols are interesting for their alleged capacity to reduce cholesterol in humans, but the benefits are probably non-existent for fishes, especially as it pertains to Catappa leaves in the aquarium! I mention them in this piece merely because fishy authors touting the benefits of Catappa leaves love to throw them out there for reasons I cannot grasp!

Punicalagins act as antioxidants and are the major component responsible for the antioxidant health benefits of fruits, such as pomegranates (You know, the "wonderful," yet really messy fruit that I always hated as a kid...). They are water soluble and have high bioavailability, so it is quite possible that they are of some benefit to fishes!

 

 

I recall hearing about cool study conducted by fisheries researchers in Thailand on Tilapia, which concluded  that Catappa extract was useful at eradicating the nasty exoparasite, Trichodina, and the growth of a couple of strains of Aeromonas hydrophila was also inhibited by dosing Catappa leaf extract. In addition, this solution was shown to reduce the fungal infection in Tilapia eggs. 

 

Using Catappa leaves in the aquarium: Preparation, considerations, and cautions

So how many leaves do we “need” in our aquariums? 

 

Interestingly, there is not a really clear-cut answer here! We may have to rely on the completely anecdotally-derived "recommended" number of leaves per gallon as determined by long-time users of the leaves. In other words, estimates based on our intuition, what we’re trying to achieve, and ultimately, the results we're getting!

The "generally accepted" quantity for Catappa leaves is subjective, at best- typically like 1-2 large leaves (approximately 5" plus) for every 15 gallons (approximately) of tank capacity, or several smaller ones for the same tank volume. And of course, like so many things in this hobby, if you ask 10 aquarists you'll probably receive 10 different answers!

 

 

 When searching for Catappa leaves on line or from other sources, it’s very important to make sure that you’re obtaining them from a source which hasn’t used pesticides or other chemicals, which can leach into your water and have disastrous results for aquatic life. The leaves most reputable vendors sell are free of pesticides and major pollutants.

Most high-quality Catappa leaves require minimal preparation for aquarium use, yet still should be rinsed at the very least before adding to the aquarium. I like the idea of steeping leaves in boiling water for 10 minutes or so, which helps soften them up a bit and "sterilizes" them to some extent, without "cracking off" all of the beneficial tannins bound up in their tissues.

 Possibly the most important issue when utilizing Catappa leaves and other botanical materials in the aquarium is water parameter management- as it relates to soft, acidic water, environmental stability, and even its implications for the ever-important nitrogen cycle. 

 Without going into the intricate details, it's a fact that "soft" water- water with little in the way of dissolved minerals to absorb acidic compounds, is inherently more prone to more rapid and significant drops in pH than "hard" water- water with greater concentration of dissolved mineral ions- and creates more challenges for the aquarist, particularly when adding materials to the aquarium which can lower the pH of the water significantly.  When adding Catappa leaves to an aquarium with very soft, already acidic water,  prepare all botanicals thoroughly as instructed above, add them very slowly, and monitor pH /KH as you go to judge for yourself the impact of these materials on your water chemistry.

 

 Remember, when you're using reverse osmosis/deionized water, it's devoid of most all minerals to help "buffer" the pH from falling towards acid, so you need to "remineralize" it with commercial additives, or utilize some buffers that typically keep the pH in the mid to high "sixes" (like 6.5-6.8). This will give you some "reserve" and stability, should the pH begin its fall towards the lower end of the pH range.

 

 

 

One solution towards preventing this lack of stability is to utilize some soft water with your hard water from the tap (dechlorinized, of course), to get the hardness down to a manageable and safe range of 5-10 degrees of hardness. There are formulas out there to tell you how many parts of each you need to mix to achieve a specific hardness (of course, you need to know the KH of both your tap water and RO water)- usually it works out to around 3 parts of RO to 1 part tap water, but your results will vary, so do your homework- lots of resources out there. And of course, there are other influences on the hardness and pH of your tank water, such as the minerals contained in substrates and rocks, which can impart some buffering capacity to the water in the aquarium, potentially "neutralizing" or at least impacting the influence of the acid-producing materials on the aquatic environment. 

 

Remember, the fact that leaves and other botanicals can release compounds capable of lowering the pH doesn't mean, if you add them to a hard water system, with a KH of 20 and a pH around 8.3, that you're suddenly going to achieve "Orinoco-like" conditions of soft water and low pH! Rather, with a lot of buffering capacity in the water, the impact of the botanicals on the pH may be surprisingly limited.

 

Where you can potentially run into trouble is in a system that already has soft, acidic water, and you add a large quantity of leaves and botanicals into the system at once. The rapid release of large amounts of tannins and humic substances can, indeed drop the pH far more significantly and rapidly than you'd want, creating an extremely stressful situation for the tank's inhabitants. (Not to mention, the influx of a significant amount of organic material to the aquarium, and its potential burden to the biological filtration, as well)

 

What happens when the pH plummets rapidly to levels well below, say 6.0? Well, a whole lot, actually! "Acidosis" can occur in fishes, resulting in potential damage to gills, skin, and internal organs. It gets worse: In highly acidic water, nitrifying bacteria (you know, the guys who help convert toxic ammonia into relatively harmless nitrate) essentially can "shut down", meaning you'd be totally dependent upon materials like zeolites and other chemical absorption media to remove toxic ammonia from your aquarium water. 

Although it’s possible to maintain an aquarium in this fashion, this requires a LOT of monitoring and no real margin for error on your part, so the reality is, that in most circumstances, you simply don't want to keep your aquarium's pH below 6.0...or even, say, 6.2. Just too many potential issues for some people to want to deal with, in my humble opinion.

For most hobbyists with water of moderate hardness, as stated above, the impact of an influx of leaves botanicals in an otherwise stable system will be negligible: Perhaps a slight drop in pH over time, and a definite aesthetic influence (i.e.; the color of the water!). However, just because the water is "brown" it does not indicate that it's soft and acidic, of course! 

 

 Like so many things in aquarium keeping, the extent to which we put our animals lives at risk is in our hands. Using leaves and botanicals to help foster "blackwater" conditions in an aquarium is no more dangerous than any other aspect of fish care. It's not all doom and gloom..You simply need to be aware of the potential of these materials to impact the aquatic environment, just like anything you add- from substrate to rocks, to driftwood-in any type of aquarium. 

 

The need to monitor a blackwater system carefully is different than  say, running an African Rift Lake cichlid tank or a reef aquarium- you simply need to be aware of what's going on in your water…it’s part of the game. Blackwater aquariums, like many other "specialty" aquaria, are not "set and forget" systems. They require monitoring, management, and observation on a continuous basis.

The idea of “pre-conditioning” your source water with materials such as Catappa leaves, etc., before it's utilized in your aquarium, makes a lot of sense. You can "mess with it" as much as you need to in remote containers to get it exactly how you want it, so you know going in exactly the parameters of the water being added to your display. From there, you monitor the impact of your water on the existing aquarium environment. It's perhaps a slower process, but in terms of control of water parameters, is ideal. 

 

 

Remember, a surprisingly large number of fish species that hail from soft water environments, such as Tetras, Apistogramma, Gouramis, Killies, etc, can adapt to harder, more alkaline water. Some may not look as spectacular as they do in soft, acid waters, and may not breed as easily, but the fact is that you don't have to obsess over creating these conditions in your aquarium to keep many of these fishes successfully. 

 

 

 

 

 

Many are produced commercially in conditions significantly different from those found in their will environments. Perhaps you simply want to run a "hard-water/tinted" system, which has the aesthetics of a real blackwater environment, and far less potential issues...that's fine and a good compromise- but you still need to be aware of what's going on in your water like in any other aquarium.

Just having stability of pH/hardness in your system, plus a little influence of the natural tannins and other compounds found in aquatic botanicals, can give your fishes some of the positive effects of blackwater environments, at least from an aesthetic standpoint, without significant risk associated with actively managing potentially unstable water chemistry.

 

 

Bring on the blackwater!

Okay, let’s say that I haven’t scared you off with all of that talk about the potential problems associated with using leaves and other botanical materials in your  aquarium! How would you then utilize these leaves in your aquarium? If you’re striving for an aesthetic component, and want to replicate the conditions of blackwater environments, these leaves are perfect! Blackwater streams and rivers are fascinating subjects for recreating in our aquaria!

 

A blackwater stream or river flows through forested swamps, wetlands, and flooded fields. As leaves fall from overhanging trees into the water and decay, the tannins bound up in these materials are released into the water, making it transparent, acidic, and darkly stained, looking for all the world like coffee or tea! The breakdown of Catappa leaves in closed aquarium systems mirrors what happens in nature, and offers many possible benefits for fishes that come from blackwater environments.

 

 

 

As mentioned previously, blackwater rivers and streams have different chemical composition from "whitewater" environments, which has lead to the formation of flora and fauna that differs significantly from what are found in other types of waters. In general, blackwater rivers have large numbers of organisms like rotifers, but fewer organisms like crustaceans and mites. You won't find snails to any great extent in blackwater systems, because it is difficult for them to build their shells in these calcium-poor environments. Sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium are found in much lower concentrations in blackwater systems than in other types of aquatic systems, and with minimal amounts of dissolved ions, the water has much lower conductivity than you'd see in a "whitewater" system as well. Blackwater rivers, like the Rio Negro, are incredibly high in fish biodiversity, and it's estimated that they are home to over 700 known species, with around 100 being endemic to this river environment!

 

The leaf litter, in particular is a dynamic and fascinating component of the blackwater environment, one which would be fascinating to replicate in the aquarium!

 

In wild habitats, there may be literally hundreds of fishes per square foot inhabiting the matrix of botanical materials on the bottom of stream beds, which consists primarily of leaf litter.  As dead leaves are broken down by bacterial and fungal action, they develop biofilms and associated populations of microorganisms ("infusoria", etc.) that are an ideal food source for larval fishes. When you take into account that blackwater environments typically have relatively small populations of planktonic organisms that fish can consume, it makes sense that the productive leaf litter zones are so attractive to fishes!

 

The potential health benefits for aquarium fishes residing in carefully-controlled "blackwater" conditions are numerous, ranging from greater disease resistance to increased spawning activity, and, as documented in several studies, higher-yielding hatches with less incidence of fungal outbreaks in egg clutches. Some animals, such as Plecostomus catfishes, characins, and even ornamental shrimp, derive supplemental nutrition from grazing on these materials.

 

Obviously, as leaves break down, the look of your aquascape will "evolve", literally "morphing" into a different scene over time. Consider leaf litter a "transitional" or "consumable" product that needs replacing over time. The aesthetic, though alluring, isn’t for everyone!

 

One of the most common questions I’m asked is how often you need to replace your leaves. Here's my take on the subject:

 You don't have to remove the decomposing leaf litter, unless you simply don't like the look. Part of the "charm", if you will, of leaf litter is that it is a surprisingly dynamic environment to watch. However, there are situations where leaving the material in could be detrimental: If it's creating unsanitary conditions, such as trapping excessive amounts of uneaten food, fish waste, etc, and degrading water quality- then you'd want to a)review your husbandry practices and b)consider siphoning some of the material out. For most of us, however, I'd say to just leave the stuff in, and add new leaves as needed to maintain the "density" and aesthetic you want. 

 

 

Leaf litter zones comprise one of the richest and most diverse biotopes in the tropical aquatic ecosystem, yet they are seldom replicated in the aquarium. I think this has been due, in large part- to the lack of continuous availability of products for the hobbyist to work with, and just maybe, a “mindset” among aquarists that a “natural” aquarium must look “pristine” and almost “sterile” to be considered “healthy.”

 

The dynamic of life in this unique environmental niche can, in my opinion, best be summarized in this interesting excerpt from an academic paper on Blackwater leaf-litter communities by biologist Peter Alan Henderson, that is useful for those of us attempting to replicate these communities in our aquaria:

  

"..life within the litter is not a crowded, chaotic scramble for space and food. Each species occupies a sub-region defined by physical variables such as flow and oxygen content, water depth, litter depth and particle size…this subtle subdivision of space is the key to understanding the maintenance of diversity. While subdivision of time is also evident with, for example, gymnotids hunting by night and cichlids hunting by day, this is only possible when each species has its space within which to hide.”

 

In other words, different species inhabit different sections of the leaf litter, and we should consider this when planning, creating and stocking our leaf littler biotope aquariums.

 

How would you construct a leaf litter zone in your tank? 

 

As hinted at in the excerpt above, you should use a variety of materials, ranging from various leaves to seed pods, to driftwood.

In the aquarium, consider both practicality AND aesthetics when replicating this biotope. Much like in nature, you also want a diverse mixture of botanical materials, some which may decompose rather quickly (such as Catappa leaves and Guava Leaves), and others which have "duration" and last much, much longer (like Loquat leaves, Oak leaves, seed pods, Catappa bark, driftwood, etc.).

 

Regardless of how you choose to employ Catappa leaves and other botanicals in your quest for a "blackwater" aquarium, it's important to take a cautious, responsible, well-informed approach, and leave nothing about you water parameters to guesswork. Knowledge is a key to success and stability in all areas of the aquarium hobby, and you should arm yourself with as much information on your aquariums as possible, for the benefit of all of the animals under your care.

 References

 

Chitmanat, C., Tongdonmuan, K., Khanom, P., Pachontis, P. and Nunsong, W. (2005). Antiparasitic, Antibacterial, and Antifungal activities Derived from a Terminalia catappa solution against some Tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) Pathogens. Acta Hortic. 678, 179-182

DOI: 10.17660/ActaHortic.2005.678.25

 

P. A. Henderson and I. Walker (1986). On the leaf litter community of the Amazonian blackwater stream Tarumazinho. Journal of Tropical Ecology, 2, pp 1-16. doi:10.1017/S0266467400000547. 

 

I Walker, P.A. Henderson- Journal of Fish Biology JFIBA 9, 1990 Spatial Organization and Population Density of the Fish Community of the Litter Banks within a Central Amazonian Blackwater Stream

 

Hales, J., and P. Petry (2013). Rio Negro. Freshwater Ecoregions of the World. 

November 24, 2016

0 comments


Thankful? Yes, indeed!

With the American Thanksgiving holiday upon us, it’s only fitting that we pause and reflect upon the blessings and advantages that we enjoy. This is not just applicable to life in general, but to our hobby experience in general. Of course, we are all grateful for the freedom that we enjoy, as well as for the sacrifices of our military men and women who secure those freedoms. Like it or not, we take for granted the liberties bestowed upon us by our democracy, and the opportunity to control our own destinies. and of course, we are all thankful for the loved ones we have in our lives.

 

Okay, with the more generic stuff taken care of, it’s time to look at the Thanksgiving holiday, from a fish keeper’s perspective. Here are my top 5 things I’m thankful for as a fish geek this year:

LIvestock availability and selection: Can you believe the sheer number of choices that we have available to us as fish geeks now? I mean, when you have dozens of varieties of one species of Apistos, for example it’s a great time to be in the hobby! Less than 25 years ago, our selections were so much more limited, and the amount of tank bred fishes was seriously small compared to today. Some captive-bred  were a novelty at best; today they are pretty much the industry/hobby standard. Amazing.

Forums and Social Media: The fact that I can wake up each day and share my thoughts and opinions about aquarium-keeping with each one of you is awesome! The reef hobby has become, thanks to the pervasiveness of social media, a more “open source” endeavor, with anyone being able to share his or her experiences with fellow hobbyists around the world instantly. Feedback is available 24/7, in real time. Hobby breakthroughs, disasters, and trends are instantly disseminated for the benefit of everyone. When a hobbyist has a breakthrough and announces the first successful spawning of some new African Cichlid, for example- we’ll all know about it within hours! So what if we have weird usernames on the forums- at least we’re communicating!


Lighting is better than ever: Thanks to the literal explosion in LED technology, super high-quality, ultra-effcient lighting is available to every hobbyist at pretty much every price point. With highly specialized optics, custom spectrum colors, and dozens upon dozens of control options, it’s possible for even the most non-tech-savvy aquarist to create lighting that can faithfully replicate say, the seasonal lighting conditions in Lake Victoria, or the rainy season in The Amazon. When coupled with other aspects of aquarium husbandry that have improved, who knows what breakthroughs will be occurring over the next few years in biotope replication?

 

 

Hobbyists are looking at specialized, amazingly aquascaped aquariums as an aesthetic compliment to their living space: Sure, you’ll still find plenty of jury-rigged “project” tanks around the nation, but, more than ever, your far more likely to find a beautiful tank with awesome aquascaping and the the equipment tucked neatly into a cabinet, garage, basement, or dedicated “fish room”, where it won’t damage the aesthetics of the display. Some of the top “builds” in the hobby are ones that embrace a design ethic that actually enhances the too in which they are located, rather than detracts from the overall design. What do we owe this to? Well, a variety of factors: First, manufacturers seem to get it- we like stuff that makes our homes look good! Second, smart aquarists realize that if it looks good, their formerly disapproving spouse might actually enjoy the aquairum. Finally, I think we’re just “maturing” as aquarists, realizing that the impact of a fish tank is far greater if the whole system is appealing to everyone. Sure, it’s cool to see pumps, controllers and reactors - but not in your living room!

 

 

Aquarium- keeping knows no racial or gender barriers. Regardless of race, creed, age, color, gender, physical limitation, or sexual orientation, aquarium keeping is not discriminatory. What counts to a reefer is the aquarium, the animals, and the skills of the hobbyist who created it. This is one of the most amazing phenomenon I have noticed in my many hobby speaking trips around the nation: A tank is a tank to a fish geek- and we are united by our common love for the hobby, the animals, and the lifestyle it encompasses. A reefer is a reefer, regardless of what religion he or she practices, who her or she sleeps with, or what color his or her skin is. And THAT is the single greatest thing in our hobby that I am thankful for in aquarium keeping.

 

May the blessings of the Holiday Season bring joy, peace, and freedom from want to you and your family this year, and may those of you who are facing other personal challenges take comfort in your hobby and the community that surrounds it. Be thankful for what we have accomplished, for the sacrifices that others have made so that we can enjoy our endeavors, and never lose sight of the fact that we are all sharing the same planet. Most importantly, let’s never forget that the people who comprise the hobby community are the number one reason why we enjoy the greatest hobby on earth!

What are you thankful for on the eve of this Holiday? Share your thoughts with your fellow fish geeks! 

 So, don’t eat too much, take your time getting around this weekend, spend time with your family, and of course…drop a few bucks at your local fish store or favorite online vendor…like Tannin Aquatics, where we will be featuring 25% off of everything! (More about this later, of course…had to get the shameless plug in there somewhere!)

Stay engaged. Stay excited. Stay generous. Stay cordial.

Stay Wet!

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

 

 

November 23, 2016

0 comments


"You did...WHAT?"

 

Have you ever done something with your aquarium that everyone said was nuts? More important, did you get away with it, or did you crash and burn? Did you at least try something that the “hobby establishment” said could not be done, or SHOULD NOT be done? Wasn’t it fun? Expensive. Embarrassing, perhaps… 

 

But fun, right?

 

Did you try something “different” than what “they” say is the way to go? Something that provoked those kind of "If man were meant to fly..."-type comments?

 

 

("It'll never work." Ok, so maybe they were right about this one, but...)

 

I mean, something ill-advised, sort of crazy, off-the-wall, or just downright kooky? Or, did you act on one of those ridiculous ideas that someone threw out when tossing back a couple of brews with the gang after the fish auction or club meeting? Something totally wild?

Relax. You're among friends.

As one who has been known to take a few chances, go against prevailing “aquarium wisdom”, and generally push the outside of the envelope a bit (as well as encouraging others to indulge in similar foolhardy adventures), I have even developed an unofficial “classification system” for such free thinking.

Of course I’m going to share it with you, because it’s important for me to continue to nurture disruptive behavior. That’s what makes the hobby great, right? So, here we go, with the “Fellman Scale of Innovative Thought”, which consists of "categories" of ideas:


Ill-Advised Ideas- I’m probably most guilty of this one, along with the majority of aquarists who dare ask the “establishment”, WHY? Examples of this would be things like the time I was convinced that I could keep 4 different types of Centropyge Angels together in a 255-gallon reef system without calamity or bloodshed. It was exacerbated, of course, because I went with a mature (yeah, no juveniles for me) Flame, a Lemonpeel, a Vrolicki, and a Coral Beauty…in a REEF TANK! After the days (yeah, DAYS, not weeks or months) went by, in addition to relentless territorial battles reminiscent of the tribal areas of Afghanistan, my prized LPS collection was showing signs of, as one of my friends eloquently put it, “wear and tear…” 

You can imagine how fun it was to break down the aquascape (“Multiple bommies, so that each Angel has it’s own territory”, I reminded myself before I embarked on this foolish escapade.) after I came to my senses and decided to end the grand “experiment.” Hey, this one was a product of my own arrogance, and I was really convinced at the outset of the experiment that I was to be THE ONE who could pull this off. Did I admit defeat? Nope. I just concluded that it could work better with a larger tank...

Arrogance. Simple arrogance. But it was interesting.

Or- starting Tannin Aquatics. A company that specializes in “twigs and nuts” (as one of my buddies calls it) and encourages brown water, biofilms, and decomposition. Yeah. Nothing crazy there…

 But the fish idea...it wasn't my best...

 

("With enough territories, more than one can totally co-exist." Maybe. Right?)

 

Sort of Crazy Ideas- You DIY-types are usually more “guilty” of this one…You know, stuff like top-off systems that involve dosing foods, surge devices in your living room, 4 chambered recirculating algae reactors, homemade refrigeration systems for cold-water fishes automatic liquid food dosers, etc. "Improvements", you call them. The "better mousetrap" is your thing. I mean, these ideas are usually pretty nice, and represent many of the great values that we have in the hobby (the independent spirit, adventure, the pursuit for knowledge..the desire to save a few bucks…). Yours is a world of duct tape, twist ties, and Home Depot runs. Ideas haunt you at night...Some of these ideas are just a little too advanced for our skills, or perhaps there is really no inexpensive way to make an all-in-one-surge/autofeeding system for under $1,500. Well, maybe there is…It’s just that kind of thinking that keeps the creative (well, you can call them “sort of crazy”) ideas flowing…

 

 

 

("Why limit yourself to two wheels?")

 

Off-The-Wall Ideas- This is typically the realm of newbies..or even experienced hobbyists- who, because of their genuine innocence, love of the hobby, and/or “Why CAN’T it be done?” mindset, come up with some of the craziest ideas of all- and often execute them, albeit with mixed results. I think we should really consider them “outside the box” ideas, however. Ideas like leaf litter “farms” for nutrient export, crustacean “reactors”, multi-level gradient cryptic zone filtration systems, etc., which have a great theoretical effectiveness, yet may be challenging to apply in reality. Nonetheless, it’s at this “level” that real hobby innovations often occur…Stuff like electronic monitors/controllers for aquarium functions, controllable internal pumps, breeding setups for fishes like Pipefish. Many great companies, both in and out of the aquarium hobby sector, were founded on just such a mindset. And, you’ll recall, it wasn’t that many years ago that the idea of cutting up frags of Acropora to grow out on ceramic plugs seemed pretty “off-the-wall”, right?

 

("You want to grow...what?")

 

Downright Kooky Ideas- This is the type of stuff that gives our hobby the appearance of being a bit, well- eccentric- to outsiders. Stuff like converting indoor swimming pools to igarapes, building aquariums that look like telephone booths and Ford Pintos (heh, heh, couldn’t resist), 10 ml ultra-pico tanks, trying to grow gamefish in a home aquarium, etc. etc. Look, I’ll be the first to tip my hat to the dreamers, free thinkers, and even the eccentrics among us. However, I’ve always been a bit of a realist…I mean, counterproductive, hurtful, and idiotic thinking is never in vogue. Yet, where would we be without the truly absurd stuff to give us some a) comic relief, b) measure of how serious we take this stuff, and c) ability to let our passions (and our checkbooks, all to often) run wild from time to time. Brainstorming is great…Bringing down the ideas from the ”Downright Kooky” region into the “Off-The-Wall” territory results- many times- in some of the best innovations that we have ever seen.

So, dear fishy friends, don’t be put off or led astray by “conventional” hobby thinking, if there even is such a thing…Rather, allow your mind to wander, your passions to soar, your visions to take flight- and your dreams to come true. Don’t put them out with the “wet towel of negativity…” Rather, temper them and nurture them with the spirit of innovation. Keep those ideas flowing, visualize a way to make them become practical realities, and think about the greater good your developed dream will unleash upon the hobby. Disregard the spills, glued fingers, frayed nerves, short circuits, cracked aquariums, and occasional insurance claims. Think of the bigger picture: The conquering of new worlds, the sharing of new ideas, and innovations as yet undreamed of, which will forever change the hobby for the better. 


 

"...And we call it the iPhone..."

 

I close with a classic quote, often attributed to the great Mark Twain, which holds much relevance to this diatribe:

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines, Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” 


Don’t shoot down that wacky, sleep-deprived, alcohol-induced idea that you and your buddies concocted at 3:30 AM at a hobby conference…even if it IS “Downright Kooky!”

Let’s hear of your triumphs, tragedies, absurd ideas, and amazing innovations. Be open, be honest…Be aware. And most of all…

Stay Wet.

Regards,

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

November 22, 2016

0 comments


What's "beginner's fish", anyways?

I often think of the term "beginner's fish" that the industry/hobby loves to bandy about from time to time.  I don't particularly care for it. It's one of those "double-edged swords", in my opinion. On one hand, it referes to a fish that, by it's very nature, is apparently adaptable, hardy, and easy enough to care for that it can even be recommended to a novice aquarium keeper with little skill.  Now, on the surface, this sounds pretty good. 

Yet, when you look at some of the fishes being touted as "beginner's fishes", it's pretty apparent that there are some aspects of some of them that defy this over-reaching description. I mean, look at the Neon Tetra, for example. Sure, it's reasonably adaptable, hardy, eats most anything you feed it- making it a reasonable and hardy choice for a beginner. However, when you think about it, how many hobbyists do you know who have bred the Neon Tetra?

Like, not that many, huh? 

And then, the very term "beginner's fish"seems to devalue the fish, as if to imply that once you're no longer a beginner, the fish is somehow not worthy of your skills and should be passed over in favor of more "exotic" and challenging species.

So, what exactly constitutes a "beginner's fish?" 

Wouldn't, say, a guppy be a better call as a "beginner's fish", because it pretty much ticks every box in the "beginner's" department? Well, sure, it's easy to breed, hardy, etc., etc. However, to produce truly fancy show guppies- the best of their kind- represents a huge amount of work- housing, feeding, culling, selecting, etc. Not something that every "beginner" would necessarily want to undertake, or have the skills for, for that matter. In fact, many advanced hobbyists aren't up for the challenge, either! To produce a fancy guppy is not as easy as just throwing any two fishes together.

Yet, wouldn't you agree that keeping and breeding guppies- even the fancier varieties, is easier than keeping, say a Leopard Ctenopoma, for example?

The reality is that most fishes are far more "multi-dimensional" than to be given the term "beginner's fish."

Sure, some fishes are simply easier to adapt to aquariums. They can tolerate environmental fluctuations better than others. Some can be bred with far less effort than others. Yet, to assign the generalized term "beginner's fish" to me implies an animal that is near bulletproof. And that's a bit of an overstatement.

Ever kept a Gourami? Many of them are surprisingly tough, but some of the ones commonly sold as "beginner's fishes" are far more delicate than the term would imply, certainly not in prime health and color in an undisciplined aquarium.

So, where does this leave us? Well, in my opinion, we need to rethink the "beginner's fish" moniker for fishes that are hardy enough for novice fish keepers to keep and maintain for a long life span in the aquarium. I think we need to utilize an equally broad, yet more descriptive term, like"hardy."  Sure, it doesn't tell the whole story about the fish. It says nothing about the ability to breed it, but it avoids that overreaching "beginner's fish" title, and says a big chunk of what I believe the title was meant to imply in the first place.

And often, so of the more well, "dull" fishes are often heaped into the "beginner's fish" basket as well...You know, fishes that may not have been blessed with bright crazy colors. Their like "disposable" to some, simply because they have little to offer fro ma color standpoint under typical "community tank" conditions. 

 

And then there is the fact that, when provided with conditions similar to their natural habitat, even these fishes become more amazing to keep, from both a health and aesthetic perspective. We can appreciate these so-called 'beginner's fish" even if we're not a "beginner", right? Hardiness and color certainly are only a small part of the story.

For example, our office aquarium, which you see splashed all over our blog, social media posts, etc., is home to a small shoal of Hyphessobrycon flammeus, the "Flame Tetra" or "Von Rio" Tetra- a fish that, for all intents and purposes is a historical "poster child" for the so-called "beginner's fish" archetype.

Hardy, peaceful, subtly colorful, and easy to breed, it's easy to take this one for granted. Yet, when in the proper setting, such as our blackwater leaf-litter aquarium, they glow. And we receive a near constant stream of inquiries from hobbyists worldwide wanting to know what "those bright red fish" are. They're almost always surprised to hear that it's our old friend, the Flame Tetra!

I think that the idea of providing conditions for fishes similar to those from it's natural habitat, even when you're talking about a long "domesticated" version, will give you an entirely different perspective on them. Even the more "chromatically challenged" Tetras with muted colors seem to take on an entirely different glow under blackwater conditions.

I'm such a strong believer in this that one of our next tanks is going to be set up entirely with some of the lessor-colored so-called "beginner's fishes" in a blackwater environment, to really demonstrate the point.

So, next time you're looking to stock your tank, take into consideration those fishes that are so frequently taken for granted by the hobby. Colorful, dull, or somewhere in between, it's always fun to check out some old friends in a new light!

Simple thought for a short week.

Stay fascinated. Stay excited. Stay creative.

Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

November 20, 2016

0 comments


On the idea of "solving" problems in our aquaria..."Big" vs. "small" moves?

Have you ever noticed that when we are trying to solve a problem in our aquariums, the "solution"- the easy, initial one- is often to "add something" to the aquarium. Be it a chemical, piece of gear, or other accessory, it's always about the addition of stuff, right?

And if it's not about adding more stuff to the aquarium, it's often about doing more stuff: Bigger water changes, more extensive maintenance procedures, significant stocking changes...BIG moves to affect rapid, significant changes. The aquarium equivalent of brute force.

Big moves.

And these big, bold moves almost always cost more, in terms of time, money, and energy, and often have another collateral price attached to them, in terms of animal stress, human aggravation, financial strain, and energy expended.

Wouldn't finesse make more sense when affecting changes?

You know, subtle adjustments. Gradual changes? Unless you're dealing with an acute emergency, what's the rush?

Nature seldom does things quickly that don't have dramatic, often detrimental effects, so why should we?

Or for that matter, when creating your aquariums, why not incorporate smaller, measured, yet easily adjusted practices, equipment, and philosophies to set you on a proper course? In other words, plan your systems with the potential problems already in mind, so that you've sort of "pre-solved" them.

Huh?

For example, if you just KNOW you're ultimately going to want 16-20 large Congo Tetras in that aquarium, and you have the space, financial resources, and energy, wouldn't it simply make sense to start with the 75, 90, or even 120 gallon tank now, rather than go to the time, trouble and expense of building a 50 gallon system, knowing your predilection for expansion? Sure, it might cost more from the start, or even delay the start of the project, but "editing" your system after it's up and running, and then migrating to that inevitable larger tank is almost always way more expensive than just doing it the right way the first time!

It's the same with equipment selection.

We see this in the reef aquarium world all the time: In our enthusiasm to "get in the game", a smaller tank with perhaps "second tier" components is hastily assembled. Following the usual cycling and adjustment period, the neophyte reefer laments the decisions he/she made, and begins to assemble better (and typically pricier) gear, a bigger tank, and so on. The realities are usually such that, if the start of the project was delayed just a short time, it could have been executed the first time in a more efficient, sustainable, and satisfying manner.

Better for the hobbyist. WAY better for the livestock.

Maintenance and husbandry also come into play. It's not just about doing bigger water changes and more extensive cleanings and such. It's about planning from the start- from day one- to create easily accomplished and sustainable husbandry practices that can be incorporated into your life with a minimum of stress. By adopting, for example, small, more frequent water changes and maintenance tasks versus once a month, 40%-50% water changes and extensive maintenance sessions, the savings in time, money, and energy is huge...And the "quality of life" these more frequent, smaller, and more easily accomplished practices bring is significant.

Simple, thoughts on the elegance of simple, but impactful moves.

Something to think about on a quiet Sunday.

Stay thoughtful. Stay engaged. Stay open-minded.

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

November 19, 2016

0 comments


Things that freak us out a bit...?

Ever think about some of the stuff that happens in our tanks; you know, things that our fishes endure during captive care? More interestingly, do you ever contemplate if there are any natural analogs to the stuff they go through in our aquariums, and if we are a bit overly concerned about the effects they could cause?

This is the kind of stuff you talk about with fellow fish geeks on cross country flights to conferences and speaking engagements; I've had quite a few, and I'm not ashamed to say that I've had someone pretty cool conversations with fellow fish geeks over the years on these flights...

So think about these tidbits:

 

You suddenly shut out the lights on your aquarium- I used to get all freaked about this and think that the fish would spas out and go belly up with shock. The reality is that they hardly seem to care, in my experience. Light levels can suddenly decrease in nature, too. For example- a very fast-moving tropical rainstorm with thick, dark clouds. Having spent plenty of time in tropical regions of the world, I can tell you, this happens quite frequently, and the change in ambient lighting conditions happens quickly and is extremely dramatic. Wild fishes seldom seem to go berserk during these events, in my experience.

You add a few gallons of cool "room temperature" water to your 50-gallon aquarium during a water change- Another one that, in many instances, is more of an artifact of our own paranoia, IMHO. Unless you're talking a bout 5 gallons of water in a 10 gallon tank, or something of that proportion, I think the influx of some cool water is not all that problematic. Now, this is based on MY personal experience with the fishes I've kept. I've never, ever had fishes spontaneously go into shock and contract it or some other disease as a result of some small percentage of cool water into a tropical aquarium. In fact, I've seen reactions just the opposite, like Pencifishes spawning later that day (Coincidence? Maybe, but...). As mentioned above, rainstorms inundate the forests where many of the small streams and channels our fishes come from in the wild inhabit. We're talking about many more times the amount of "cool" water than we'd inadvertently dump into a na aquarium during ga water exchange. Fish live. Now, I'm not suggesting to add cold water to your tanks this winter. I'm just saying not to get overly freaked about a small quantity of it being added to your tank.

You spill an entire feeding's worth of food into the tank at one time, instead of over the course of a half an hour or so. -Beyond the obvious annoyance of wasting food, what's the real harm? Think about it. Some of the food gets eaten quickly by your fish. Some of it gets sucked right into the filter. Some of it lodges into the plants, rocks, and substrate. What to do?You can allow your fishes a day or so to "forage" for the food- kind of what they've been doing for millions of years. You can clean out the filter after a day or two, so you don't have a large quantity of food decomposing in there for the next 3 weeks. You can siphon out the uneaten food from the substrate, plants, and rocks. Or...you could do nothing. I mean, if your tank is so "on the edge" that a few grams of uneaten food will decompose rapidly and "crash" you tank, I submit that there may be other, more pressing concerns to address...

Then there are other concerns that I am a bit amused by...but my cavalier attitude about them is kind of cruel and unwarranted. Like, I really, really, really shouldn't find this funny- but I do: An aquarist is posting on some forum, frantic because of the tannins in that new piece of driftwood staining the water of his/her "nature aquarium" setup: "When will it go away? Is there anything I can do to speed it up?" I mean, I need to be more understanding of the fact that not everyone digs brown water. Not everyone likes what we do.  I guess having a company dedicated to the art and "science" of cultivating tinted water makes me that way...LOL But, I DO get it. Really.  Just find it amusing for some reason. It's my evil guilty pleasure, okay?

I think many of these concerns are grounded in fact...Perhaps, as I've suggested in the past- fact based on older methodologies, theories, and ideas. I'm not saying to be relaxed in our husbandry, feeding, etc. I am suggesting that we need to adapt a little more calm demeanor about "stuff" that happens. 

Easier said than done, right? I'll bet you can come up with dozens more...

Yeah.

Until next time, don't get too freaked. Stay calm. Stay focused.

And Stay Wet.

 

Scott Fellman

Tannin aquatics 

November 15, 2016

0 comments


Big ideas, small fish- and smaller aquariums..the "Nano Renaissance" is here!

What is it lately with all of these cool tiny fish coming into the hobby?

Seems like every time I turn around, a friend is telling me about some new tiny Tetra, Rasbora, or Apisto. 

I think it's one of the coolest developments in years...and it dovetails very nicely with the idea of creating speciality tanks for fishes that would otherwise be sort of "lost" in a larger tank. And what's even more cool with these little fishes, besides the fact that you can keep 'em in smaller tanks, is that you can create, without too much expense, equipment, and effort- interesting little "niche" tanks, representing very specific habitats. 

This is not only fun from a hobby perspective, but it's a huge development for aquarium "science" in general. Think about it: If you could keep a group of cool little fishes in say, a 5-gallon aquarium, set up to replicate a seldom-created micro-niche, like an Asian peat swamp for Rasbora, wild Bettas, or gouramis, or an African "mud pool" for killies, with little "infrastructure" investment, minimal expense, small "footprint",  and short "build time", you could work with a lot of different little fishes that might otherwise not get the attention and study that they deserve from the hobby. And in the process, you can help unlock some really cool insights into these fishes and their habitats- all while doing something very creative and inspiring for others!

What would be some examples of tanks you could do, "nano", that would be a much larger, more all-consuming comittment if done "at scale", as they say? Well- here are a few of the ideas in my head:

*The aforementioned "African mud hole"- Think about it...many annual killies (and non-annuals as well), hail from pools of water that are often little more than temporary ruts in muddy roads, or larger puddles from torrential rains.

Essentially, they consist of muddy/leafy bottoms, relatively turbid water, and nothing in the way of aquatic plants. I could foresee this biotope being replicated in a shallow, wide aquarium with a dark substrate of mixed fine sand (perhaps a fine version of one of the aquatic plant soils comes to mind), maybe even some peat and/or pond/potting soils (properly prepared. of course). Toss in a few assorted leaves and small botanicals for contrast and texture, use a sponge filter with the aeration turned really low, or even a small outside power filter, and BOOM! African mud hole killie habitat! Hello, Fundulopanchax, Nothobranchius, etc....! Extra points if you do a riparium setup!

 Mangrove root habitat (Mangal)- Oh sure, this idea has been kicked around in the hobby for years, and you'll occasionally see a marine or brackish enthusiast incorporate a few mangrove seedlings into a marine tank or maybe a brackish tank, but we rarely see attempt to replicate the fascinating habitat that is found where the mangrove roots meet the substrate. This is a remarkably diverse and fascinating niche, with all sorts of possibilities for a freshwater, brackish, or even marine nano tank. 

In a small tank, this habitat could be replicated without necessarily having to utilize live mangrove propugules. One could use some various branching pieces of wood, like Mopani, "generic" driftwood, or even some darker pieces of cholla (although you'd want to "encrust it with algae or plants to hide its decidedly "non-mangrove" look...). I'd focus on the "below water" part, although you could easily do a sort of riparium type setup.

I tried this a number of years ago (albeit poorly) with a tank set up impulsively one late sleepless night, to sort of do a "proof of concept" with it

I think you could arrange the wood in such a way as to recreate that interesting tangle...way better than in my feeble, caffeine-fueled effort above.

This kind of leads me to another "tangent" habitat that would be cool to play with on a nano scale...

*Submerged tree branch (worldwide)- I mean, you could put this in Asia, Africa, or South America easily...What you'd focus on in a nano is a "closeup", rather than the whole scene- of a submerged tree branch or log and the fascinating mix of life that inhabits it. You don't need a huge tank to focus on this.  You can go with a tons of  different fishes, all sorts of plants, and numerous aquascaping possibilities..

Like, focus on ONE branch..or one part of one branch...that's something we don't see often enough, as we love to create the "whole scene"...and in a tank less than 40 liters, you don't have a lot of real estate to work with, so why not chose one killer piece of wood, lots of leaves, botanicals, and appropriate plants, and select some small fishes that would really be nice to highlight in such an environment. Could you imagine a nano devoted solely to say, an Otocinuculus "micro-niche?"

Focusing so tightly is utterly appropriate for a small tank, especially when working with small fishes that would simply be "lost in the shuffle"- being minor "components" of a larger display.

Rocky swift-water stream habitat for darter characins- Oh YES! There are some really cool little guys that spend their entire existence hopping around on boulders, stones, and rocks in relatively fast-moving Amazonian waters...

Think about smooth round stones covered with biofilm/algae, maybe a scattering of plants/moss, and maybe a few little botanicals for good measure...gravel/sand on the bottom...Again, focusing on a tiny segment- not trying to create the whole scene...

Like so many things we do in aquarium keeping, the possibilities are endless when we apply our imagination, ideas, talents, and a little inspiration from nature to the mix.

Keep dreaming big...and perhaps- executing small.

Stay creative. Stay adventurous...Stay cutting edge.

And Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

 

November 14, 2016

1 comment


Fish selection and "the big picture..."

I don't know if it's just me, but I have this thing about "brown and grey" fishes. I've written about this before, and it always catches an empathetic ear from some fish geek somewhere, who agrees with my less than chromatically brilliant aesthetic choices.

And I try to figure out what it is about the somewhat "chromatically challenged" fishes that I love so much. Now, don't get me wrong, I can appreciate the incredible colors of a fancy Betta, brilliantly-colored Tetra, a beautiful Discus, or a fancy livebearer. It's just that, when I'm selecting fishes for my aquariums, I tend to go after the more subtly-colored ones for the bulk of the fish population in a given aquarium.

Sure, I will often put in a fish or two that has a big "pop" of color for the affect. However, the majority of the fishes in my tanks are subtly attractive (or, "Just subtle", as one of my "friends" tells me, lol). For example, the "stars" in my characin-heavy office tank that you see so much here are Nanostomus marginatus and Sailfin Tetras (Crenuchus spilurus)- nice- but not the kinds of fishes that you're going to catch a glance of as they swim by and yell, "WOW! Those are crazy!"

Rather, they are the kinds of fishes that have their own quiet charm. They blend nicely into their surroundings, have interesting color patterns, and sort of hold your attention a bit longer than say, a school of bright, flashy Cardinal Tetras. For a "pop" in color, I always seem to choose a fish that is, indeed colorful, but maybe one that wouldn't be your first choice to blow people's minds...Like, for example, the "Orange Flame Tetras", Hyphessobrycon flammeus (a domesticated variant of a popular "beginner's fish") that grace our office tank. If I had a dollar for every time someone asked me what those fishes were, I wouldn't have to sling botanicals for a living!

There is something to be said for bright- but not outrageous-fishes in a natural setting. I remember when I was a kid, my dream tanks in my mind  always had black gravel and a huge school of Cardinal or Neon Tetras in them. I think it was about contrast. I still like that look, yet, as I've gotten older and more experienced as an aquarist, I've found that I tend to favor more subtle fishes that sort of blend in harmoniously with their environment.

In the botanical aquarium, it's great to have a little pop of color against the deep, rich colors of leaves, pods, and wood, and the tinted water. However, one of the surprising things I've discovered is that the more subtle fishes tend to "pop" more in blackwater tanks. Now, "surprising" not in that they display better colors- the environmental conditions we create obviously assist in that- but "surprising" in that they tend to catch your eyes more than I had expected. Even the more cryptically-colored-and shaped fishes do this. In fact, they are somewhat more engaging in this setting than the more obvious, brightly colored fishes, IMHO.

There is something I enjoy about being able to take in the "whole picture" of an aquarium, and to not have any one element really make a huge impression on you. Rather, it's nice to have the entire aquarium provide a sort of "vibe", and take you on a little journey of discovery.

In my opinion, the very best aquariums- marine or freshwater, keep you engaged for a long time, as if strolling in a garden- discovering the little surprises along the way. The best aquariums I've ever seen don't stand out because of that one element...rather, it's a combination of things working together, creating an intricate collage of color, texture, and structure, like Andrea Freel's magnificent aquarium below.

Regardless of what the primary focus of the aquarium is (fish, plants, hardscape), it's the combination of elements that seems to create the whole impression. For example, Tai Strietman's fantastic blackwater tank, which we've shown many times on these pages, is filled with all sorts of botanical elements, as surprising as palm fronds or as common as leaves and plants, yet the entire "picture" is truly greater than the sum of its parts. The fishes tend to become the "kinetic" element in a well thought-out display: A moving, living component which weaves the whole thing together.

And that's where the less vibrant fishes come in. In my opinion, if you had nothing but crazy-colored fishes, the tank itself would tend to just be "the background"- a supporting player in a larger cast of characters. 

By incorporating more subtly beautiful fishes into your aquarium, you've woven together a combination of colorful, interesting elements that form the whole picture, truly greater than the sum of its parts.

A lot of outstanding aquariums arise from a vision, a dream...an idea. It seems that, no matter how we plan them in our head, they come together in ways that perhaps we never imagined, and as they evolve, morph into ever more rich, complex works of living art...not unlike nature itself.

Until next time...think about the "big picture."

Stay engaged. Stay creative. Stay dynamic. Stay subtle.

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics