The Tint

"I know what you did last weekend..." A look at a Tannin tank build from concept to completion.

It's a lot of fun to source, test, and share all of the cool aquatic botanicals we offer. It's  really fun to work with them ourselves!

Lately, I've been playing with an aquascape in my home office that draws inspiration from various tropical streams around the world, specifically, parts of South America and West Africa, where smooth, rounds stones, larger-grained sand, branches, seed pods and "twig-like" materials accumulate in moderately sluggish water.

Obviously, there is a great deal of creative freedom when you're drawing inspiration from a huge geographical swatch of the world, multiple ecological niches, and no rigid requirement to represent a specific biotope. As a hobbyist and aquascaper, it's really the "perfect storm" for creative expression...and fun!

For fishes, however, I'm going South American for sure, with a bunch of Characins, Apistos, and Pygmy Corydoras being the "stars" of the tank.

Our aquarium is an Innovative Marine "Fusion Lagoon 50", which has a wide, relatively shallow footprint (30"x24x16"), which gives you great front-to-back depth and an opportunity to create a great sense of scale with the hardscape materials, while keeping plenty of negative space for fishes to swim.

We decided to start with a gently sloping sandbed, using CaribSea "Torpedo Beach", one of my favorite substrate materials- and the primary feature, Manzanita branches, following the "flow" of the sandbed from right to left. We selected pieces with long, thin, open sweeping branches, laid on end to achieve a "fallen branch" effect. In case you haven't played with this stuff before, our Manzanita is a terrific material to work with, as each specimen has lots of open, thin branches and a good structure, while not eating up too much space in the aquarium.

One of the things I love about Manzanita is that you can easily "lock" a few pieces together to achieve intricate, yet open structures that create real interest, height, and scale in your 'scape. We took full advantage of this "modular" aspect when selecting and placing our driftwood pieces, ultimately using a total of 3 pieces, with the largest being about 18.5" x 11" x 6.5", which, when combined, still leaves plenty of open space in the tank, as this "mid construction"(left side still bare) shot shows:

Tannin Tip: Like most 'scapers, I love to place hardscape materials in the tank even before the substrate is in, just to get a feel for the general layout, and how things will ultimately "flow" within the 'scape":

Obviously, I am incorporating some of my favorite hardscape materials for this aquascape, and I've elected to use the venerable "Savu Pod", along with the underrated "Terra Sorrindo" Pod, the "Lampada Pod", and the nut-like "Heart Pod" as the basis of the botanical array. Mixed in as "supporting members will be "Encontro Pods", Banana Stem Pieces, and, if they "play well" with the overall dynamic of the layout, Coco Curls.

I like a variety of botanicals in a tank; however, when you're trying to create a display in which leaf litter is not the primary theme, I think it's important to limit the selection and quantity of materials to just a few (like half a dozen or so in this instance), so you don't overdo it. I also selected some small river stones to create a complimentary, random effect on the substrate.

With my initial selections made, I began work on the next aspect of the aquascape- placing the substrate into the display. This was my first chance to get a real feel for how the aquascape would flow within the tank, and how the materials I selected would contrast visually with the substrate. I am liking the vibe of this tank thus far, as my selections seem to work well together with the materials I've placed at this point.

At this point, I'm ready for the next phase, which is to place my prepared botanicals into the display...which to me, is where the real fun begins! And of course, all of those fun "edits" and adjustments to the hardscape that can make a huge difference in the feel of the layout. For example, I am not sure, but I might add a bit more slope to the sand on the right and the left side of the tank, to provide a bit of a more dynamic look. We'll see. What do you think?

Here's a shot of the tank at the last stopping point. It's starting to come together, but has  long way to go yet. Should be fun.

In the next installment, we'll look at the results of the "tweaks" and the placement of the "supporting cast" of botanicals.

Stay tuned!

And stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

8 Indispensable gadgets that no aquarist can do without

As aquarists, we ply our stock in trade with some pretty standard gear" Aquariums (duh), high-tech filtration systems, heater, protein skimmers, reactors, electronic controllers, etc., etc. It seem like every year, new, cool gadgets and equipment is introduced that promises to make our hobby more enjoyable, the routine tasks easier, and our results more spectacular.

However, when you examine things on a deeper level, you'll come to realize that many of your best pieces of "equipment" are surprisingly low-tech items that may or may not have actually been originally intended for aquarium use, right? Yeah- like kitchen gadgets, household tools, and other stuff that adapts well to our needs.

It got me thinking about just how industrious and resourceful we aquarium geeks are, and how we can make use of just about anything, right? So without further fanfare, here's my list of my 8 favorite most indispensable  gadgets that we've adapted for our hobby:

1) Pyrex measuring cup- Yeah, think about it. You've got a piece of equipment that can be used for such widely unrelated tasks as removing or adding water to your tank, measuring salt mix, additives, or substrate, or serving as a fish holding containers, or even as a "caddy" to hold aquatic plants while your placing them in your tank. I mean, what aquarist doesn't need one of these?

2) Plastic drop cloth- Let's face it- an aquarium in the household is a given for the geeky aquarist, but there are plenty of spouses/roommates/parents/siblings that would just as soon rather see a couch, exercise bike, big-screen TV, stereo system- just about anything else instead of the aquarium, and every drop of water, grain of sand, or glob of algae that gets on the new hardwood floor just adds fuel to the argument that the massage chair was a far better choice for the living room, so why not invest $5.00-$10.00 on a piece of gear that can not only help ensure domestic tranquility, but protect those floors as well?

3) Length of vinyl tubing- Water exchanges are at the core of aquarium husbandry, and there have been numerous devices offered over the years to help hobbyists make the task easier. However, few offer the reliability, low cost, effectiveness, and operational efficiency of a simple 4-6 foot length of 1/2"-3/4" diameter vinyl tubing. It's as low tech as it gets; unglamorous, unsexy, yet perfectly functional. And, it carries with it the added excitement that can only come from the constant threat of accidentally ingesting tank water during it's use. What more could you ask for in an aquarium tool?

4) Set of plastic measuring spoons- Over the years, I'm positive that you've "borrowed", stolen, or otherwise appropriated one or more kitchen measuring spoons for use in your aquarium activities, right? I mean, measuring spoons are pretty much the most useful way to administer dry additives, fertilizers, and other aquarium materials into your tank with simplicity and accuracy. Why not just break down and buy a set of these little gems for dedicated aquarium use? 

5) Chamois- Because spills happen. And there are never enough highly-absorbative, clean towels on hand...or within easy reach in "emergencies", anyways. 'Nuff said.

6) Plastic bucket- The absolute workhorse of the fish room; an indispensable partner in your aquatic endeavors, the plastic bucket needs no introduction. If you don't have one, and have been somehow living in a cave for all of these years, you just need to grab one. Period.

7) Plastic syringe- I don't know about you, but I remember asking the doctor every checkup for a new plastic syringe (of course, without the needle), and felt a great sense of accomplishment when I'd score one. Now, of course, you can find them everywhere, for a variety of uses...but they're the quintessential aquarium tool, IMHO. It sure was more fun to feel like I scored one from the doctor with my convincing request, but it's good to know you can grab 'em easily nowadays nonetheless.

7) Hobby knife- Who needs a scissors? You need a good knife. 

8) Turkey baster- It's not just for the Holidays anymore. You can use a turkey baster to target feed invertebrates, blow sand or gravel away from areas you don't want it, prime a filter, and quickly feed fishes in your 30-tank fish room. Yeah- simple, low-tech, incredibly useful.

Okay, so that's my top eight most useful gadgets for aquarium use...Of course, there are dozens more, and these are just my opinions. You probably have them already, or have had them at one point or another...It's almost an afterthought, but it's also a testimony to our ingenuity, resourcefulness, and our ability to carefully "appropriate" stuff from other parts of the house for our purposes...you gotta love that!

What others can you think of?

Stay resourceful. Stay creative...

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Are your hands...dry? Why?

I had a customer call me the other day regarding some issues that he was having with his fabulously-equipped, obscenely expensive 300 gallon mixed reef system. He’s got the usual littany of tech toys that scare off many freshwater folks making the switch to the "reef" side of the game- high end European protein skimmer, dosing system, biopellet reactor, turbo-charged external powerheads, and an electronic controller that would make NASA jealous.  Seemed like all was good and that he should be at the top of his game with his 15k plus investment in this tank.

Yet, for some reason, his system just didn’t look right. Corals seemed off-color, fish were listless, and the system just didn’t look “right”. We went through the usual questions: “Any new fishes added recently?” , “Did you dose any additives?”, “When was the last time you did a water change?”….

As it turned out, he felt that his super high-tech system made him exempt from basic husbandry practices…Not only had it been literally months since he did a water change, it had been an equal number of months since he actually checked the parameters measured by his controller!

Incredible.

In fact, his "auto top off" system had failed some time before and was not adding fresh water to make up for evaporation...he was topping off the tank "visually" with fresh water as he noticed the level in the sump dropping from time to time. Upon checking, the specific gravity in the tank was 1.029! Yikes, that's saltier than the edge of a Maragrita glass! 

 One of the controller’s probes cracked, and the pH probe was not even submersed in the water, so he wasn't even able to get accurate technical information or clues about the increasing specific gravity!

For all of his techno-props, my friend overlooked some basic tenants of reef-keeping (aquarium-keeping, really): 1) You can’t blindly rely on gadgets to control your system without glancing at them occasionally to ascertain if they are working or not, and 2) You need to adhere to some very basic husbandry practices- such as water changes, to dilute metabolic waste products. 3) You cannot turn a blind eye to a problem; it may only get worse if left unchecked.

Basic stuff, yes- but absolutely vital if we are to enjoy long-term success with captive animals. I’m frequently blown away how seemingly advanced hobbyists tend to overlook the most basic aspects of aquariology- observation of their systems and attention to regular husbandry. I don't know if it's the times that we live in, or what- but stories like this one are becoming increasingly common.

You can't just throw money and technology around and expect it to render you immune from the basics of aquarium care and stewardship. All the technology in the world will not replace your taking the time and making the effort to observe and care for your aquarium. You probably know this already...but I'll bet you have a friend or two who haven't figured this out yet, for one reason or another.

Spend less time shopping for that “limited edition” coral, "ultra rare" imported African Cichlid,  and more time just looking at your aquarium!  Return to the basic “core” experience of keeping an aquarium, and get involved with your system on a more intimate level.

Get- and keep- your hands wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Fry feeding "old school" style?

"Infusoria."

Remember that word? It's one of those aquarium world "catch-alls"; a sort of "hangover", if you will, from a gentler, kinder era in aquaristics. A time when under gravel filters, freeze-dried foods, and airmail of tropical fishes from Florida to you were considered state-of-the-art, cutting edge things.

"Infusoria" may be described as a real "catch-all" term for small aquatic organisms, like euglenids, protozoa, unicellular algae, tiny invertebrates, and that are commonly found in freshwater environments, like ponds, creeks, and drainage ditches, used as a first food for tropical fish fry. Sometimes, it's referred to as "green water" in older hobby literature- a kind of vague descriptor.

In modern formal biological classification, the term "infusoria" is considered an antiquated, obsolete descriptor, as  most of the organisms previously included in the collective term "Infusoria" are assigned to a different assemblage of taxonomic groups.

Nonetheless, it's a charming, albeit somewhat antiquated term that is still used in aquarium circles to describe the tiny organisms that arise when you soak some blanched lettuce, vegetable skin, or other plant matter in a jar of water. They're perfectly sized for young tropical fish fry as the first food when they are free swimming. In fact, at around 25-300 microns, these organisms are consumable by most fishes as soon as they've absorbed their yolk sac.

Sounds good, but how do you "make" the stuff?

Well, traditionally, it was done in the most low tech way: You would take some blanched lettuce leaves, old flower clippings, hay, etc. etc. and basically let the stuff decompose in water, and after several days, a smelly solution of cloudy water will arise, driven by bacteria. Ultimately, after a few more days, the water will clear when creatures like Paramecium and Euglena arrive on the scene and consume the rampant bacteria population. Voila, in theory, you have an "infusoria culture."

Well, yeah, but the problem is, the density of desirable animals to plain old water is pretty low when you culture this way, and you'll most likely be "feeding" your hungry fry with drops of stagnant water, little more. The more modern approach would be to obtain a pure starter culture of Paramecium from an online biological supply house (yeah, their are plenty of 'em- just do a Google search). Here's my fave. Paramecium average around 150 microns in size- perfect for free-swimming tropical fish fry!

You can use the aforementioned decomposing lettuce as a start, or you can elect to be a bit more clean and modern and use brewer's yeast (which comes in tablets) that you'd use at a rate of like 1/2 of a tablet to a 1 liter bottle. Sure, there are probably more exact numbers to employ, but this is a hobby, right? I'm telling you what worked for me. You'd also use a few grains of wheat, which you can grab at the local health food store (or supermarket, for that matter) to help kick start things. Don't over do either, as you'll end up with a much more stinky culture as a result.

Trust me on that.

You might notice a scum on the surface, and perhaps a bit of odor to the water...but you're an aquarist, you're used to smelly went stuff, so pay it no mind. And the water will take on a bit of a faint brownish or very light greenish color- totally normal.

After about 4-5 days, you should take a few drops of water from your culture (beneath the "surface scum") and examine them under bright light with a magnifier. You'll be able to see some little, tiny sliver-like things (very scientific) wiggling around in the water. If you're hardcore like me, you'd look at them under your cool hobby microscope (a totally fun tool for the aquarist, BTW) for more accuracy!

This tells you it's time to rock and roll...you can feed your baby Tetras, Barbs, etc. right away, by dropping like 40-50ml of culture solution into your 5 gallon rearing tank. It's actually no big deal if you add more, because these organisms are harmless, and would naturally be found in water with fishes (albeit at a lower density). Feed several times daily, and you'll be surprised how quickly the fry learn to recognize and attack them.

Sure, there is really not all that much involved in the process of raising "infusoria" than we've outlined here. Cultures of Paramecium are used extensively in labs to rear larval fishes, because they are an economical, nutritious option for newly-free-swimming fishes to feed on.

So, like many things in the hobby- the approach may have changed, but the idea remain the same- using whatever means we have at our disposal to create the best possible outcomes for our fish efforts!

I say to the breeder who may, for one reason or another, decided to use different foods- to give the "old school" method a try once in a while, not just because it works- but to help keep alive a direct link to the past of our fish keeping heritage, with a more modern approach applied.

Until next time, watch those little creatures swim, feed those fry...Go old school.

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

An aquarium as a microcosm..an old concept that's somehow new?

For a long time, we looked at an aquarium like a vase with cut flowers. Merely a vessel holding water, plants, fishes, and other stuff...key word was "holding."

Then, of  course, hobbyists got into the idea of breeding stuff. And propagating plants.We were no longer content to merely keep aquatic creatures alive in our aquariums. Pretty soon, we were thinking of an aquarium as a place to grow stuff.

"Grow."

I saw a compressed version of this century-long evolution of freshwater aquaristics during the rise of the reef aquarium hobby, which really started to take off in the mid 1980's. For the longest time, we were happy to just keep a box full of fishes and maybe a few tough invertebrates alive. Then, we evolved up to trying to house them long term. Experiments with new technology and technique resulted in the birth of the modern reef system, with robust filtration, lighting, and studious analysis of water chemistry. The emphasis was on providing a great environment for the animals, so that they can thrive and reproduce.

Within the past 10 years in the reef hobby, we've went from a doctrine of "You should have undectable nitrates and phosphates in your reef aquarium because natural reefs are virtual nutrient deserts!" to "You need to have a balance between too much and too little." We've come to understand that reef aquariums- like any type of aquarium- are biological "microcosms", which encompass a vast array of life forms, including not just fishes, corals, and invertebrates, but macro algae, benthic animals (like worms, copepods, and amphipods), planktonic life, and more.

Reefers came to understand- as freshwater pioneers did generations before- that just because a reef has undetectable phosphates and nitrates in the waters surrounding it, our aquariums don't have to run that way. Corals need nutrients and food, and an aquarium is not a natural reef; an open system with uncounted millions of gallons of water passing through it hourly.

We've begun to understand that it's not all about creating the most scrupulously clean environment possible for the animals under our care- it's about maintaining the best possible dynamic for their overall health, growth, longevity, and hopefully- reproduction. Creating and fostering processes and conditions that create a biological balance within our little (or not so little) glass and acrylic boxes we call "aquariums."

With biotope and theme aquariums all the rage, we've come to really appreciate the acceptance of this mind set...that an aquarium is a microcosm- a functioning little biological community, with a full compliment of life forms. Planted aquarium enthusiasts have really embraced this, understanding the need to provide a full compliment of nutrients, trace elements, and overall environmental stability to get pants to grow and reproduce.

When I talk to aquarists who are putting together specialized aquarium for say, wild Bettas or Apistos, I am reminded that we are in a wonderful time in the hobby. We have access not only to amazing fishes from all over the world- we have access to technology, materials, and techniques to create realistic and functional simulations of the diverse and fascinating environments they come from like never before.

Today's aquarist can appreciate the elegance in the complete aquatic ecosystem, from the most beautiful fish to the lowest bacterial life form, and everything in between. When we strive to understand, embrace, and replicate natural systems in our aquaria, we are truly embarking on a more enlightened way of aquarium keeping.

Just something to reflect upon.

Stay fascinated. Stay excited.

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquaitcs

Don't fade away.

I remember, when I was much less experienced in the hobby and industry, I would get this sense of excitement, fascination, and anticipation every time I looked into my tanks, visited the LFS, or a friend's fish room. I loved that feeling. That...spark.

Over the years, as I became more entrenched in the business side, I always had that more than casual interest in fishes, but it was from a different viewpoint, and there was something almost "casual" about the whole thing. I think that was not so good. Perhaps the spark was fading a bit.

Then, I started writing...a lot. And speaking at clubs and events throughout the world, mostly on reef aquarium topics, and after a while,  I'd start getting that familiar sense of excitement again, every time I'd speak. It was starting to feel exciting again! I figure that I've probably done over 300 talks in the last 10 years or so, and at each one, I meet stoked hobbyists who get excited over the simple, beautiful art of aquarium keeping. It's cool.

Within the last year, it was as if something inside me really woke up. I walked into my facility at Unique Corals one day and was like, "Ohmigod", I have 15,000 gallons of water here, with fish, corals...stuff!" It was pretty amazing. The excitement was...back..the pure, unadulterated, unfiltered hobbyist-grade excitement.

And then one day, the longing to do something more with freshwater became too powerful to ignore, and I began planning and plotting Tannin. I wanted to share my love of my specialized freshwater interests with other hobbyists...to serve as a resource for all of the cool stuff fellow hobbyists would need to create displays different than what they have before...to foster a sense of adventure, creativity, and excitement. To develop a community, a camaraderie, around some of the stuff we love. The spark was ignited yet again.

I haven't looked back since. Working with my customers every day and experiencing the hobby once more as a "practicing" hobbyist has reinvigorated my love of the aquarium world. I'll never look back.

Last week, I gave a talk in Kansas City, where I met some amazing people at the Heart of America Aquarium Society. My host, David Whitcraft, showed me his fascinating fish room, choked full of cool cichlids, catfishes, and even some corals...and yet again, that excitement was there! Burning brighter than ever.

It was a cool space...filled with all sorts of tanks, projects, ideas...it oozed of that "special something" you see my gush about so much on these pages.

Seeing David's cool Shell dwelling "Lake Tang" cichlids got my pulse up and the creative ideas flowing...

And of course, the rare Plecos and Ancistrus were enough to throw me over the edge again!

The big takeaway from all this meandering?

If the hobby has somehow become a bit "mundane" or "routine" to you...visit a friend's fish room. Take in the sights, sounds, smells (LOL), ideas...And open up your mind to the remarkable possibilities that come when you simply "do" stuff. Don't let it get to the point where it's not amazing. Don't take it for granted. Enjoy every second, every experience of this fishy world we're all in.

I'll never let that spark fade away again, for sure. It can't...this stuff is in my blood.

Don't let this wonderful thing called the aquarium hobby ever become routine, because it isn't. Every day, we get to see and work with the finest examples of nature's creations. It's an awesome thing. A beautiful thing...and an important thing.

Enjoy it. Obsess over it. Share your love for the hobby with others.

Stay excited, engaged- in the game. And most important...

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Why exactly do Catappa leaves benefit our fishes?

I sound like a "broken record" (wow, that's a really outdated expression, huh?), blabbing on and on daily about the virtues of Catappa leaves, wood, and aquatic botanicals.

I really get excited about leaves! Specifically, Catappa leaves!

Catappa leaves have been used by fish geeks for a number of years, especially Betta enthusiasts in Southeast Asia, and there has been a lot written on them. Regardless, a lot of the stuff written about the virtues of using leaves is often couched in some nebulous sales gobbledygook by people like me who make a living selling them. Yeah, a bit self-serving, I admit...but how else can we get you into the idea of using what we sell? :)

Here's the deal: Catappa leaves (aka "Indian Almond leaves") come from the Terminalia catappa tree. These trees are found throughout the tropical world, in Asia, Africa, and Australia. They can reach a height of over 100 feet tall, so we're not talking about a wimpy little bush here! 

The big benefits of the Catappa tree to us fish geeks, of course, are the bark and particularly, the leaves, which contain a host of interesting chemicals. The leaves contain several flavonoids, like kaempferol and quercetin, a number of tannins, like punicalin and punicalagin, and a suite of saponins and phytosterols. Extracts of T. catappa have shown some effectiveness against some bacteria, specifically, Plasmodium, and some parasites as well. 

When Indian almond leaves are subjected to degradation in water, humic substances are formed, which, in turn, lower the pH of the water. The tannins are what color the water the beautiful brownish color that we geek out about so much around here!

There is also anecdotal evidence and theories that the tannins in Catappa leaves are able to reduce the toxicity of heavy metals in aquarium water, essentially binding them up or chelating them- a most interesting benefit for the urban fish keeper, I might add. As a curious side note, blackwater streams and rivers are acidic, resulting in an aluminum concentration greater than that of "white waters", which have a more neutral pH. 

"Okay, Scott. That sounds very scholarly, but what exactly are those things and what can they do for my fishes?"

First off, I admit freely that I'm no scientist. I'm a hobbyist with a slightly higher interest in aquarium science than the typical human, and yeah, I had my share of biology and chemistry in college. That being said, I'll share with you what I know in concise, hopefully intelligible language!

Well, lets start with the flavonoids. Flavonoids have been shown to have direct and synergistic antibacterial activity (with antibiotics) and the ability to suppress bacterial virulence factors in a number of research studies. They may also act as chemical "messengers", physiological regulators, and "cell cycle inhibitors", which bodes well for their use as a prophylactic. Kaempferol, a noted flavonoid,  is thought to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Hmm...could that be why Betta fanciers used them for so many years after fighting their fishes?

Saponins can be used to enhance penetration of macromolecules, like proteins, into cell membranes. Some are used in vaccines to help stimulate immune responses, so you can see some potential benefits here as well.

Phytosterols are interesting for their alleged capacity to reduce cholesterol in humans, but the benefits are probably non-existent for fishes, especially as it pertains to Catappa leaves in the aquarium! I mention them merely because fishy authors touting the benefits of Catappa leaves love to throw them out there. 

Punicalagins act as antioxidants and are the major component responsible for the antioxidant health benefits of fruits, such as pomegranates (You know, the "wonderful," yet really messy fruit that I always hated as a kid...). They are water soluble and have high bioavailability, so it makes sense that they are of benefit to fishes!

A cool study in Thailand with Tilapia concluded  that Catappa extract was useful at eradicating the nasty exoparasite, Trichodina, and the growth of a couple of strains of Aeromonas hydrophila was also inhibited by dosing Catappa leaf extract at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml and up. In addition, this solution was shown to reduce the fungal infection in Tilapia eggs. 

Well, that sounds pretty cool!

Only problem with the findings from the study is- and I'll be the first to admit this- most of us don't have the equipment/capability to easily determine mg/l of Catappa leaf extract is dissolved in water, so we may have to rely on the completely anecdotally-derived "recommended" number of leaves per gallon as determined by long-time users of the leaves. Meaning, we estimate based on our gut and the results we're getting...

So the "generally accepted" dose for these leaves is subjective, at best. That's typically like 1-2 large leaves (we're talking like 5" plus) for every 15 gallons (approximately)...there is no real "rule of thumb", other than recommendations derived from users over the years- and of course, like so many things in this hobby, if you ask 10 aquarists you'll probably receive 10 different answers.

Nonetheless, the leaves do have some science-backed therapeutic capabilities, as touched on briefly above, and their usefulness in helping hobbyists to safely replicate the conditions of blackwater environments in their aquarium is widely known in the hobby. These streams and rivers are fascinating subjects for recreating in our aquaria!

A blackwater stream or river flows through forested swamps, wetlands, and flooded fields. As the vegetation optioned in these features decays, the tannins bound up in these materials are released into the water, making it transparent, acidic, and darkly stained, looking like coffee or tea!

If you're trying to mimic conditions of  blackwater streams and rivers, Catappa leaves can certainly help, as we've repeatedly discussed on these pages. The breakdown of these leaves in closed aquarium systems mirrors what happens in nature, and offers many possible benefits for fishes that come from waters that are soft and acidic.

 Blackwater rivers and streams have different chemical composition from "whitewater" environments, which has lead to the formation of flora and fauna that differs significantly from what are found in other types of waters. One study showed that blackwater rivers have large numbers of organisms like rotifers, but fewer crustaceans and mites. You won't find a snails to any great extent in blackwater systems, because it is difficult for them to build their shells in these calcium-poor environments. 

Sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium are found in much lower concentrations in blackwater systems than in other types of water, and with minimal amounts of dissolved ions, the water has much lower conductivity than you'd see in a "whitewater" system. Blackwater rivers like the Rio Negro are incredibly high in fish biodiversity, and it's estimated that they are home to over 700 known species, with around 100 being endemic to this river environment!

The potential health benefits for fishes residing in carefully-controlled "blackwater" conditions are numerous, ranging from greater disease resistance to increased spawning activity, and, as documented in several studies, higher-yielding hatches with less incidence of fungal outbreaks in egg clutches.

So, all pretty cool stuff!

I hope this little meander about some of the real benefits of Catappa leaves and the blackwater environments they can help simulate will encourage you to do a little personal experimentation with them. 

With quality Catappa leaves readily available, and the documented benefits they offer, there's never been a better time to enjoy "the tint!"

Stay interested. Stay curious.

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

Just...Why?

Okay, as lifelong hardcore fish geeks, we are probably more attuned to "stuff" than most fish people ever will be. It's in our nature to be curious, think about how to make changes in our systems based on observations, blah, blah, blah.

However, the one thing that you can almost "take to the bank" in fish keeping is that stuff never quite goes the way we plan...or if it does, there are usually some detour that you didn't expect, right? 

Well, the hardcore fish geek expects such detours...doesn't necessarily welcome them- just expects them! And of course, there are many. You want some examples? Well, here are a dozen questions I'd like answers for:

Why is it that...

*The fish you've been trying to breed for two years won't even pair up- but the one you were given by a buddy as an unwanted "gift" and have been trying desperately to rid your fish room of reproduces like...rabbits?

*The fish you saw in the clearance tank at the LFS and purchased  on impulse- ONE specimen- because you knew you'd grab more "next time", is never seen at the LFS again?

*The only time you experience a major spill is: a)when you're already in the doghouse with your spouse/significant other/relative, and he/she is standing right there, b)when there are no clean towels handy, c)when you're running late for an important event and just HAD to sneak in the "quick water change" before heading out, or d)when you've just installed a new hardwood floor?

*You experience the a sudden, inexplicable, and unprecedented failure of a previously perfectly reliable aquarium component (pump, heater, canister filter, lighting system- or worse yet- the controller that oversees the function of these devices) the night before you're about to embark on your 10 day overseas vacation?

*Your favorite cichlids spawn right when you run out of brine shrimp eggs? And it's (choose one): Christmas Eve, New Year's Day, Thanksgiving Day, or another major holiday on which the fish store is closed for business?

*You get the urge to tweak that "one rock" in your aquascape before leaving for work in the morning...and are still at it by 2PM?

*You purchase the wrong hose barb fitting at the hardware store when you had the correct one in your hands minutes before...and you told yourself not to get the other one?

*You always lose track of how many drops of pH or other reagent you're adding to the test vial after like the third drop?

*The electrical cord for that vital piece of equipment for you new tank is just 2 inches too short to reach the electrical outlet?

*You always have one more electrical device than there are outlets in your multi-outlet power strip?

*The biggest sale of the year at the LFS or online aquatics vendor occurs the day after you had to make $750 worth of repairs on your car?

*You're so damn addicted to this hobby?

If you can answer these, and other pointed hobby questions- you're better than I.

Until next time, question everything. Search for answers...

And stay wet.

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics 

Reading the (Catappa) Leaves...

If you're a hobbyists who enjoys studying the environments that your fishes originate from as much as you enjoy studying the fishes themselves, then you're probably already a fan of creating aquariums around fishes that live in a certain niche in nature, or around certain habits that they embrace. Called a "biotope aquarium" such a display is a cool and very educational way to keep tropical fishes, and we're excited to offer materials to help you create such memorable aquatic displays.

It's remarkable just how many diverse species of fishes inhabit aquatic systems in nature which are dominated by leaves and submerged terrestrial plant materials, such as seed pods, branches, and roots. Here are a couple of interesting types of fishes we've been obsessed with recently which come from such an environment!

Parananochromis is a beautiful and interesting cichlid genus native to tropical West Africa. Only comprised of eight species, it’s relatively new to science, and really quite rare in the trade. Many of the fish in this genus come from waters that are remarkably acidic, sometimes as low as pH 5.0 or less, and a general hardness of 0!  They contain tremendous amounts of decaying leaf litter, seeds, pods, submerged branches, and other botanical materials.

 What does this tell us about how we can maintain these interesting fishes in the aquarium?

Well, for one thing, it tells us that they probably do best in an environment with plenty of areas to retreat to when threatened or otherwise disturbed. It also tells us that, in addition to the protection they enjoy from the layer of leaves and such, they probably derive other befits, such as nutrition and spawning substrates within the matrix of these materials.

Another cool genus of cichlids which tends to forage in leaf litter-infused waters is  Congochromis.  We don’t seem to see these guys as often as we’d like, but they have beautiful colors and fascinating behaviors. 

(Pic by Udo Vorhusen Licensed Under CC BY-SA 3.0)

Coming as they do from rainforest streams, you’d expect them to be found in areas that have a soft substrate, littered with lot of decomposing plant material, including leaf litter, twigs and other debris. The key takeaway here again is leaf litter. Like, these fishes come from pretty deep leaf litter areas! 

 Hmm...

This of course gives us a neat clue as to the type of environment that they might be best kept in captivity.  As a fan of leaves and other aquatic botanicals, I’m very interested in the possibilities that they offer to maintain and breed fishes from leaf litter zones in captivity. One of the reasons they are not so easy to collect in the wild is that they may bury themselves deep into the substrate of leaves to escape predation!

 Those leaves again.

In addition to providing a chemical and physical environment that is suitable for these species, the leaf litter may also also provide for the production of protozoa, which is beneficial as a supplemental food source for newly hatched fry. 

It’s a common theme in many tropical fishes come from rivers and streams…They use leaf litter as not only a place to hide, reproduced, and live…they derive some of their sustenance from these very leaves as they decompose, hosting a tremendous amount of life forms, from copepods to insect, in which they feed. So, you could probably say that these fishes are benthic detritivores, feeding on plant materials and organic detritus, in which aquatic insects and invertebrates are consumed, too.

(Pic by Frank Fox Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0)

Of course, the leaves themselves, as they decompose, enrich the substrate and overall aquatic environment with minerals, trace elements, tannins, and other substances which benefit the animals which inhabit this niche.

In the aquarium, when the leaves and other botanicals we keep break down, they're performing many of the same functions as they do in nature. Granted, in the closed environment of the aquarium, there are aesthetic and maintenance considerations (like stability of water chemistry) to contend with. You'll have to keep an eye on things; leaf litter biotope aquarium are certainly not "set and forget" systems. Whether you choose to remove some or all of the materials as they break down is purely your choice.

If you're diligent on monitoring and maintaining water quality in your aquaria, there is no reason why you can't use the benefits of leaves and botanicals to your advantage, helping to provide a more complete, more natural-looking, more "functional" biotope aquarium for your fishes from specialized environmental niches.

We offer the materials- Mother Nature offers the inspiration.

Go out there and research, replicate, and enjoy!

And most of all..

Stay wet!

Scott Fellman

Tannin Aquatics

A different kind of "Green"- Sea Grasses!

As a traveling fish geek, I’m lucky enough to talk to lots of hobbyists on a monthly basis. It’s a good life, with good times (“If this is Saturday, I must be in Akron, right? Or was it Detroit…?). I see a lot of cool aquariums and neat people. I see aquariums chock full of corals, rare cichlids, Plecos, exotic plants, etc. Some aquariums feature amazing aquascaping or ingenious plumbing systems. I see crazy fish rooms and the occasional basement fish-breeding operation.

Rarely, however,  do I encounter aquariums dedicated to-or at least featuring-seagrasses. That’s right- seagrasses!

Okay, we all have probably seen or heard about these saltwater plants at one time or another, but rarely do we find ourselves actually playing with them! They are not at all rare in the wild- In fact, they are found all over the world, and there are more than 60 species known to science. Seagrass beds provide amazing benefits to coral reef ecosystems, such as protection from sedimentation, a “nursery” for larval fishes,  and a feeding ground for many adult fishes.. In the aquarium, they can perform many of the same functions. So why are we not seeing more of them in the hobby?

I believe there are three main reasons why we don’t: 1) They suffer from what I call the “Caulerpa Syndrome”- a bad rep ascribed to just about anything green in the marine side of the hobby- “They will smother your corals”, or “They can crash and kill everything in the tank”, or even,  “They give off toxic byproducts that inhibit coral growth”.  2) There simply aren’t enough people working with them to get them out to the hobby in marketable quantities. 3) They are finicky and hard to grow. 4) More planted freshwater enthusiasts need to get on board with these!

Let’s beat up  Number 1 first: Seagrasses are true vascular plants, not macroalgae, and they  do not creep over rocks, go “sexual” and crash, or exude chemicals that will stifle the growth of your corals.  In fact, they are mild-mannered, grow  at a relatively modest rate, and are compatible with just about everything we keep in a reef tank. And no, they will not smother your corals or grow over rockwork.  They grow in soils and sandbeds, and need to put down root systems, so converts from freshwater planted tanks have a great leg up on the rest of us with their skill set. You can keep them nicely confined to just the places that you want them. Dedicate a section of sandbed that you’d like them to grow, plant them, give them good conditions, and you’ll be singing their praises in no time!

Reason Number 2 is probably caused in part by #1, but in actuality, is the most probable reason why we don’t see them everywhere: Until very recently, they were the sole domain of dedicated specialty hobbyists, who delighted in growing plants and taking on other challenges.  The hobby as a whole simply never sees them in quantity, helping spur the (false) image that they are rare, dangerous, or difficult to work with.  Someone (hey- that can be YOU) needs to step up and produce/distribute them in quantity!

Reason Number 3 has a bit of truth to it. Some of the seagrasses can be a bit finicky at first, and don’t always take initially when transplanted. Like any plant, they go through an adjustment period, after which they will begin to grow and thrive if conditions are to their liking. It has also been discovered in recent years that there are microbial associations in the soils/sediments that they are found in which enable them to settle in better and adapt to new conditions. So in short, if you are obtaining  seagrasses, you can never hurt your cause if they come with some of the substrate that they grew in.

If you can provide a mature, rich sand bed (say 3”-6”), good quality lighting (daylight spectrum or 10k work well), decent water quality, some iron fertilizer, and no large populations of harsh herbivorous fishes, like Tangs or Rabbitfishes), you can almost guarantee some success. And the other key ingredient is patience. You need to leave them alone, let them acclimate, and allow them to grow on their own.

By the way, you can use a variety of  commercially-available substrate materials in addition to your fish-waste-filled sand, such as products made by Kent Marine, Seachem and Carib Sea, that are designed just for this purpose! How ironic- products exist to help  grow seagrasses, and so few people are actually taking advantage of them!

There are three main species that we find in the hobby: Halodule, or “Shoal Grass”, Halophilia , knows as “Stargrass”, “Paddle Grass”, or “Oar Grass”, and Thalassia, known commonly as “Turtle Grass”.  I call them “The Big Three”. Each one has slightly different requirements, and I will briefly cover them here.

Halodule looks a lot like the freshwater plant Sagittaria, or “Micro Sword”, in my opinion- and grows like it, too. Plant it  in a modestly deep (3”), rich substrate, and it will put down a dense system of runners as it establishes itself.  Once it establishes itself, it’s about as easy to grow as an aquatic plant can be, IMO.  I think it’s the best candidate for extensive captive propagation, so those of you with greenhouses should devote a tray or two to this stuff.  I envision this being grown in “pony packs” like you see  with groundcover plants at your local nursery, so that a hobbyists can purchase a “flat” of Halodule and simply plop it into their tank.. Think of the commercial possibilities here, folks!

Halophila is a very attractive plant, which, although slightly more delicate and challenging than Halodule, is still relatively easy to grow, and is really pretty, too! I’ve grown this plant in substrates as shallow as 2.5”, but you probably want 3” or more for good solid growth.  This seagrass definitely “shocks out” when you transplant it, and you will lose some leaves straight away. However, with patience, good conditions, and a little time, it will come back into its own and form a beautiful addition to your reef tank. And man, it would be a nice sight to see at your next club auction- I’ll bet you could get a choice Bucephalandra in trade for a few Halophila!

 Thalassia is “THE” seagrass to most people- the one we envision when we hear the term “Seagrass”. It’s called “Turtle Grass”, and it is one of the larger varieties, growing up to 24” in height if space permits. Its thick leaves create a beautiful contrast to rockwork, and it can create an interesting area for fishes to forage when you can get a thick growth of it. It does grow VERY slowly, and you will typically have to start with a quite a few plants if you are trying to fill in a designated space in your tank. It requires a pretty deep sandbed, too-  5 to 6 inches  or more is ideal.  Because of  it’s slow growth rate and height requirements, it’s the least attractive candidate for captive propagation, IMO. However, it is still a lovely plant with much to offer.

Seagrasses offer just another interesting diversion and an opportunity  for the hobbyists to try something altogether new in the aquarium. Not only will you be growing something cool and exciting, you’ll have a chance to get in on the ground floor of a new area of the marine aquarium hobby. With a background in freshwater planted aquariums, you'd be the PERFECT hobbyist to try this! By unlocking the secrets of seagrasses, you will be further contributing to the body of knowledge of the husbandry of these plants. Obviously, I just scratched the uppermost surface of the topic here, but I’m hopeful that I have piqued your interest enough to give the seagrasses a try!

Till next time…

Stay Wet.

Scott Fellman